FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
1. What are your training methods?
2. What are your prices?
3. Can you guarantee my dog will be trained?
4. Do you train dogs like trainers on TV?
5. My dog is on a choke collar. Is that bad?
6. My dog and I have been to a few trainers. Why should I think that you can help us?
7. I hired a “positive trainer” and all s/he did was feed my dog treats. Why should I trust you
will be any different?
8. Why can't I just praise my dog?
9. Can you mix up methods and use some old fashion force-based stuff with this positive,
science-based approach?
10. I used force-based training methods with my dog and now the dog seems a bit shy and
scared. Can you help?
11. Can you take my dog to your facility and return it trained?
12. I have a new puppy. What do I need to know first?
13. My dog is eliminating all over the house. I think my dog knows that he is supposed to
eliminate outside. Still, he eliminates inside and looks guilty when I get home. Why is he
doing this?
14. I found a Pit Bull. What should I do first?
15. My family is afraid of my pit bull. He is a good dog who has never bitten anyone or even
growled at them. How do I get my friends and family to understand these dogs are not
inherently vicious or mean?
16. Are you accepting any interns or assistants?
1. What are your training methods?
We use positive reward-based training methods and behavior modification techniques that are founded in the scientific principles of animal learning theory. We do not use or condone the use of aversive methods that include pain, force, shock or startle due to the significant risk of unwanted side effects such as increased fear, aggression and anxiety. Results using positive reinforcement may take slightly longer to achieve, but the process is much less stressful for the dog and does not have the risk of side effects that you get when using punitive training methods. Clients who hire us are already committed to training their dogs humanely because they know in the long run they will have a better relationship with their happy, confident dog.
2. What are your prices?
Our prices vary depending upon the type of service (Private Training, Group Classes, Basic Training, Advanced Behavior Consulting, etc.) as well as travel time/prep time. Basic Training in a group class is the most cost effective option, but this is not a suitable option for all dogs, such as those with fear or aggression towards people/dogs. Advanced Behavior cases (involving fear, anxiety and aggression) are seen privately. These cases require a significant amount of time and commitment from both owner and trainer. Advanced Behavior cases are therefore at the higher end of the price scale and are accepted on a case-by-case basis. Please call us and we can give you a quote for the type of service that will best suit you and your dog’s needs.
3. Can you guarantee my dog will be trained?
No and neither can anyone else, so beware if you have been told that dog training can be guaranteed. The Association of Pet Dog Trainers states that, "Because of variables in dog breeding and temperament and owner commitment and experience, a trainer cannot and should not guarantee the results of his/her training." No living being is ever 100% perfect and therefore no one can honestly make such a guarantee. What we can guarantee is your satisfaction with our services and that we will supply you with humane and effective training approaches that will not make your dog unstable or have you unwittingly abusing your dog with outdated and ineffective methods. Our goal is to train you to train your dog and make the bond between human and dog as strong as it can be.
4. Do you train dogs like trainers on TV?
As we all know, there is not much reality to be found in any of the reality TV shows in general. Instead you’ll find scripts, plenty of editing and a lengthy contract in which the dog owners signed away their rights to speak of the experience afterwards. We prefer science over showmanship. Do not be fooled by the magic of editing or the agenda of TV producers to make things look a certain way. Dogs are living creatures that learn by association and consequence. Please do not experiment with your dog’s behavior based on TV advice; the one thing a few of these shows do correct is stating you should not try doing what they do at home.
5. My dog is on a choke collar. Is that bad?
Choke chains present a high potential for misuse and/or abuse. Many unsuspecting dog owners have inadvertently made their dog more frustrated and/or aggressive by using a choke or a prong collar, even when used as directed. Please refrain from these types of collars and use a harness instead. They are much more effective at reducing pulling and they pose no health risk to your dog. Please note that any type of collar left on an unsupervised dog’s neck is a potential strangling hazard, but collars that tighten around the dog’s neck pose the greatest risk. One of our favorite harnesses to help with dogs who pull on leash is the SENSE-ation Harness.
For more information on the risks of choke and prong collars, visit these links:
http://www.animalbehaviorassociates.com/pdf/RMN_humane_dog_training.pdf
http://www.ipdta.org/Research%20Findings.html#Choke_Chain_Training_Collars
http://www.sfspca.org/behavior/dog_library/choke.pdf
6. My dog and I have been to a few trainers. Why should I think that you can help us?
Did you know that dog training is an unregulated profession and that anyone can call themselves a dog trainer without any formal training or study? There are a lot of unqualified “dog trainers” taking money from dog owners who are unaware of this. The consequences for the dog could be ongoing abuse (in the name of “training”) and even death when it doesn’t work out in the end. The consequences for the humans is an uneasy feeling during the process itself (no one *wants* to choke, shock or hurt their best friend), an unstable dog (huge liability risk) and possibly even the heartbreak of having to euthanize their dog who may be too far gone. We are not magicians but the good news is that you do not need to have a magic gift with dogs to achieve your goals. What sets us apart first and foremost is our dedication to science-based, humane methods. All of our trainers are certified in Dog Training and Behavior Consulting by the San Francisco SPCA Academy for Dog Trainers, known as “the Harvard for dog trainers”. Also, dog training is not a hobby or 2 nd job for us. It is our life and our love. Finally, ask around. Our reputation among veterinarians, colleagues and clients speaks for itself. Most of our business comes from word-of-mouth referrals.
7. I hired a “positive trainer” and all s/he did was feed my dog treats. Why should I trust you will be any different?
ANY training tool can be used inappropriately, even food. There are “positive trainers” out there who have not had any formal training. Fortunately the overall risks are less severe than from those using pain/fear-based methods, so your dog wasn’t ruined. Your goals likely weren’t accomplished either, though. When we train new behaviors, we have to reinforce the behavior in order to increase the occurrence of the behavior. To do this, you must use a reward that the dog finds reinforcing. Food is often the most powerful reinforcer you have. When working on a new behavior, we rely on food almost entirely. Ultimately, though, the reward doesn't have to be a food treat. The reward can also be playing with a favorite toy, running for a ball, playing with other dogs, a belly rub, praise or anything else your dog finds rewarding and is willing to work for in a particular situation. If your dog won't actively work for what you're offering (food or otherwise), it isn't a reinforcer in that situation . It's a common myth that using food in training will produce a dog that only works for food. Reward, don't bribe. If you're using a food lure, fade it quickly and then don't have the food visible when you ask for a behavior. The reward should be produced only after the dog has performed the behavior.
8. Why can't I just praise my dog?
We praise our dogs frequently - both in and out of training. But when we're teaching a new behavior, we want the dog to be motivated to work - so we use a higher value reward, usually food (often with praise). A human example: praise is great, but it is usually the paycheck that motivates you to keep driving to work.
9. Can you mix up methods and use some old fashion force-based stuff with this positive, science-based approach?
No. We are not morally flexible when it comes to dogs and training. It is safest and most effective to work with a scientific approach that is humane that does not employ pain, force, shock or startle as motivation. Mixing methods will confuse your dog and erode your bond.
10. I used force-based training methods with my dog and now the dog seems a bit shy and scared. Can you help?
If you are ready to turn a page and leave the force-based training behind, we would be happy to work with you and we will not judge you. Many times owners unknowingly try things that are recommended by books or uninformed trainers that have serious, unwanted side effects such as fear and aggression. The important thing is that you realize the old way is harming your dog and that it is time for a change.
11. Can you take my dog to your facility and return it trained?
Beware of people who will take your dog away and “train” it. Owners of dogs in these programs often say their dog was not the same (not in a good way) when returned. Even if you found a modern, reward-based trainer to take your dog in for training, dogs are great discriminators and training often doesn’t easily transfer over from place to place and person to person. For best results, you should be involved in the process.
12. I have a new puppy. What do I need to know first?
Set your puppy up for success. Management and supervision are your best friends. Whenever you cannot actively supervise your puppy, s/he should be managed in a dog proofed area such as a crate with access to legal chew toys only. Between now and 18 weeks of age is the most important time in your puppy’s life as it is the time in which s/he is most impressionable. Experiences during this time will effect who your puppy will be for the rest of his/her life! Don’t wait. Enroll in a reputable Puppy Kindergarten class that includes plenty of off-leash training and socialization time. A well-run puppy class will teach you about the 3 most important aspects of puppy development:
– Bite inhibition: It is no mistake that puppies have razor sharp teeth and are hard-wired to bite everything they see! Since most puppies are removed from their mother and littermates at 8-10 weeks of age, it is up to us to teach our puppy about the force of its jaws before those puppy teeth fall out and the adult teeth start growing in. Before phasing out biting altogether, pups need humane and positive feedback are the force of their jaws.
– Socialization: A well-socialized dog is a joy to live with. Think volume and variety of people, places and things – and remember, not just experiences but positive experiences! Please read this letter regarding vaccination and socialization.
– Handling: Tolerating gentle restraint and handling of all body parts is a must for all dogs.
We also recommend that you purchase AFTER You Get Your Puppy by Dr. Ian Dunbar and The Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson.
13. My dog is eliminating all over the house. I think my dog knows that he is supposed to eliminate outside. Still, he eliminates inside and looks guilty when I get home. Why is he doing this?
Have your dog examined by your veterinarian to rule out any medical causes for this behavior. It is possible that your dog cannot help it and needs medical attention. Dogs are amoral and are not capable of feeling guilt. They are also instantaneous learners. This means that in order for dogs to understand the consequences of their actions, the consequences must occur right on the heels of the action that caused it. Some dogs learn that when their owner comes home, they will be scolded because this is what usually happens immediately following the return of their owners. The elimination may have happened hours ago or even a few minutes ago – still it is not immediate so no connection is made. When a dog is frightened/threatened, they display appeasement gestures in an attempt to thwart the confrontation. This is the dog’s way of kissing up and can include cowering, lip licking, rolling over to expose their belly or even submissive urinating. These behaviors are often misinterpreted as guilt and are then met with more punishment. This cycle of abuse does nothing to teach the dog what is expected of him/her. If anything, the dog is learning it is safe to eliminate when you are gone and not safe to eliminate when you are around. Interrupt (interrupt, not scold) your dog while s/he is in the act of eliminating in an inappropriate area and redirect him or her to the appropriate area for elimination. Praise and give a food reward for eliminating in the appropriate area. Make sure you have a good enzymatic cleaner so your dog doesn’t return to the old spots – if it smells like a potty spot, it’s a potty spot! We suggest Petastic http://www.petastic.com/
PLEASE NOTE: The approach of “rubbing the dog’s nose in it” or “showing him what he did wrong” will only serve to make your dog afraid of you – and his nose will smell like poo or pee! YUCK!
14. I found a Pit Bull. What should I do first?
Call the local Animal Care and Control and dog shelters to make sure no one has lost their dog. They can scan the dog for you to see if the dog as a microchip identification and take the dog if you cannot keep the dog yourself (please note: some places euthanize all pit bulls). If you have a dog that no one claims and you’d like to keep or foster the dog, go to the vet and make sure that the dog is healthy. Start looking for a positive reward-based trainer who works with and understands pit bulls. This is easier said than done. Many trainers feel that pit bulls are hard to train or difficult to socialize. Nothing could be further from the truth. Please read further on this website about pit bull training and care.
15. My family is afraid of my pit bull. He is a good dog who has never bitten anyone or even growled at them. How do I get my friends and family to understand these dogs are not inherently vicious or mean?
We sympathize with you. All pit bull owners face prejudice. The best thing to do is to direct people who are afraid of pit bulls to as many websites as you can that explains the true nature of the breed and dispels the myths that have been created by media and pseudo science.
Here are two websites that can help with pit bull prejudice:
ANIMAL FARM FOUNDATION - This website is full of useful information and educational materials.
WORKING PIT BULL - This is the site of Diane Jessup, Diane is perhaps the pre-eminent scholar of all things pit bull. There are also many links and pages here at Pit Bull Guru that can help with understanding the plight of the pit bull. Remember it is not a dog problem, it is a people problem.
16. Are you accepting any interns or assistants?
Thanks for asking! We appreciate your interest in learning more about dog training and behavior. From time to time we have openings for assistants and we are always accepting applications. Our preferred candidates are individuals who are students of or have graduated from a modern, humane, science-based school for dog trainers such as:
- The San Francisco SPCA Academy for Dog Trainers
- Companion Animal Sciences Institute
- Karen Pryor Academy
- Peaceable Paws Academy
We also consider exceptional clients (from our group or private sessions) who have demonstrated an above average interest in taking their education to the next level. If you meet any of these criteria and are committed to training dogs in a science-based and humane way, please send us an email.
